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Journal of Drug Delivery and Therapeutics
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Open Access Full Text Article Review Article
From Cream Categorization to Wound Healing: A Comprehensive Review of Cosmetic Innovations
Simran Suresh Somkuwar1, Sameer Mustafa Sheik1, Saurabh Sabale1, Samiksha Sandeep Tammewar2, Ujban Md Hussain Hussain 1*
1 Department of Pharmaceutical Sciences, Rashtrasant Tukadoji Maharaj Nagpur University, Nagpur, Maharashtra, India 440033.
2 Priyadrini J. L. College of Pharmacy, Hingna, Nagpur, Maharashtra, India 441110.
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Article Info: _______________________________________________ Article History: Received 09 Sep 2024 Reviewed 12 Oct 2024 Accepted 05 Nov 2024 Published 15 Dec 2024 _______________________________________________ Cite this article as: Somkuwar SS, Sheik SM, Sabale S, Tammewar SS, Hussain UMH, From Cream Categorization to Wound Healing: A Comprehensive Review of Cosmetic Innovations, Journal of Drug Delivery and Therapeutics. 2024; 14(12):143-150 DOI: http://dx.doi.org/10.22270/jddt.v14i12.6891 _______________________________________________ *Address for Correspondence: Ujban Md Hussain Hussain, Research Scholar, Department of Pharmaceutical Sciences, Rashtrasant Tukadoji Maharaj Nagpur University, Nagpur, Maharashtra, India 440033. |
Abstract _______________________________________________________________________________________________________________ The burgeoning concept of "Cosmeceuticals" represents a fusion of pharmaceuticals and cosmetics, offering a novel approach to skin health and beauty. This review explores the diverse landscape of cosmeceuticals, emphasizing their categorization into skin, hair, and other cosmeceutical products. In particular, the article delves into the formulation and functionalities of skin care and hair care cosmeceuticals, shedding light on the intricate balance between pharmaceutical efficacy and cosmetic appeal. The exploration extends to the categorization of creams, a vital component of cosmeceuticals, emphasizing their role in topical drug delivery. The advantages and disadvantages of this delivery system are examined, providing insights into its unique attributes and challenges. Furthermore, the review investigates the physiology of the skin, crucial for understanding the efficacy of cosmeceutical products. A significant portion of the article focuses on the ingredients commonly used in skin creams, offering a comprehensive overview of water, oils, waxes, fats, and other key components. The discussion is extended to alternative medicines and creams for wound healing, incorporating insights from Ayurveda and contemporary medical formulations. Ayurvedic herbs, such as aloe vera, peppermint, and turmeric, are highlighted for their potential in promoting skin health and wound healing. The review concludes by addressing relevant methods of preparing creams for wound healing, emphasizing the importance of o/w and w/o emulsions. Additionally, key evaluation parameters for creams, including pH determination, physical appearance, and spreadability, are discussed to provide a comprehensive understanding of the quality and efficacy of cosmeceutical formulations. This review contributes to the evolving field of cosmeceuticals, offering a synthesis of pharmaceutical and cosmetic innovations that pave the way for advanced skin care practices. Keywords: Cosmeceuticals, Skin care, Hair care, Topical drug delivery, Emulsion creams, Wound healing, Ayurvedic medicines |
1. INTRODUCTION :
"Cosmeceuticals" is a new, trendy idea that has been making waves in the cosmetics industry recently. In the natural personal care sector, cosmetics is the most popular category. Cosmeceuticals are essentially nothing more than pharmaceuticals and cosmetics combined. In essence, pharmaceuticals are drug products. Drugs are defined by the D&C Act as substances intended to influence the structure or any function of the human or animal body, or to be used in the diagnosis, cure, mitigation, treatment, or prevention of disease. The term "cosmetic" refers to any item intended to be sprayed, poured, rubbed, sprinkled on, introduced into, or applied to the human body or any part of it for purposes of cleaning, beautifying, or Enhancing appearance or making changes to the appearance. Any items meant to be used as a component of cosmetics are also included.
1.1 Cosmeceuticals are cosmetic products designed to improve skin health and beauty that contain pharmaceutical activity ingredients. A product classified as cosmeceutical has an activity meant to prevent or treat a mild skin abnormality. The following could be used to describe cosmetics: 1, 2.
The product can be used on skin that is normal or nearly normal and has pharmaceutical activity. For mild skin conditions, the product should have a clear benefit (cosmetic indication). Since the skin condition is not severe, the product's risk profile ought to be extremely low.
1.2 Categorization of cosmetic products: The terms "cosmeceutical" and "active cosmetics," "nutricosmetics," "performance cosmetics," "functional cosmetics," and "dermaceuticals" are comparable. The definition shared by all of these terms is that cosmeceuticals are products that fall somewhere between pharmaceuticals and cosmetics; they are not pure cosmetics or drugs. Products for cosmetics are divided into the following categories:
A. Skin Care Cosmeceuticals Products: In daily grooming, cosmetics and skin care products are widely used. The largest organ in the body, skin shields the internal environment from harmful radiation from the outside world, air pollution, toxic materials, and the ageing process itself, which damages the skin's underlying structures. Using makeup or other beauty products won't make the skin heal or stay in its current state. Because they contain certain functional ingredients, cosmetics products can have medicinal or drug-like effects on the biological functioning of the skin. Skin care and cosmeceutical products improve the skin's look, feel, and functionality.
B. Hair Care Cosmeceuticals Products: Unlike all other land mammals, humans have direct control over the appearance of their hair, which is one of their physical characteristics. Hair colour, style, and maintenance have a big impact on how people feel about their bodies and how they present themselves. Henna hair colouring and clay hair setting were two of the first hair cosmetic techniques used in ancient Egypt. Numerous ointments and tonics were prescribed in ancient Greece and Rome for the treatment of scalp ailments as well as for hair beauty. Topical application of hair and scalp cosmetics is used to treat hair. They must be safe for the skin, scalp, hair, and mucous membranes, and under normal use settings, they should not have any harmful effects, either local or general. However, they cannot be used therapeutically. Special care chemicals, conditioning agents, and hair growth boosters are found in hair cosmeceutical products. Fatty substances, hydrolyzed proteins, cationic polymers, silicons, and quaternized cationic derivatives are a few of the constituents. Thus, the antifungal medicines that are currently used as antidandruff components are ketoconazole, zinc pyrithione, and octopirox. 2, 4-Diamino-pyrimidine-3-oxide is a cosmetic drug that functions as a topical hair growth stimulant and is linked to minoxidil; it is used to reduce inflammation and perifollicular fibrosis.
C. Other Cosmeceutical Products: Almost entirely absent subcutaneous fat and oil glands in the area beneath the eyes. Protection and an abundance of moisture to nourish and heal the sensitive skin are essential for reducing the signs of premature ageing. As we age, our skin gets thinner, drier, and harsher. Overexposure to the elements causes the development of this disorder. In this process, many topical products act as intermediates. Gentle ingredients that interact with cells beneath the skin's surface to operate from the inside out should be used in products meant for this area without causing eye irritation. Such cosmeceutical eye creams do exist, and they provide the skin with healthy nutrients and natural emollients.2.
In addition to butcher's broom, calendula, and α-bisabolol, an active component of chamomile, to soothe inflamed skin, the other useful ingredients include antioxidants like vitamins A, C, and E, green tea, tiare flower, and Ginkgo biloba. The main component, yeast, smoothes out wrinkles and protects the skin from further harm. Squalene, carrot extract, wheat germ and corn oil, and other ingredients are typically found in eye wrinkle creams, which help prevent the appearance of ageing. Aosain, an algal extract from seaweed found in eye firming fluid, aids in the preservation of the skin's elasticity. Lawlor created dental care compositions that are helpful for applying a thick layer to the oral cavity's surfaces for preventive, therapeutic, and cosmetic purposes.
2. SKIN CARE COSMECEUTICAL PRODUCTS
These days, cosmetics are widely accessible in the form of lotions, lipsticks, scents, eye shadows, nail polishes, hair sprays, and more. After using the base cream, other cosmetics like face powder give the skin a radiance. Then there are lipsticks, which a lot of women of all ages apply. The appropriate amount of wax and cocoa butter are used to make them. Both men and women use cosmetics like colognes, gels, and lotions on a daily basis. In many situations, creams serve as a facial cleanser. Anti-aging treatments that help keep skin looking younger for years have been produced more recently. Water, soap, and cleansing cream are the greatest cleaning agents. For dry, chapped, and hard skin, cosmetic creams act as a skin nourishment. It primarily lubricates, softens, and cleanses the skin of undesirable filth. Vaseline and Lanolin are two common brands of fat creams that are utilised. Dry creams are utilised in the production of soap and gelatin, which serves as the skin's foundation.[3]
2.1 Topical Drug Delivery
Drugs have been administered to the human body by a variety of routes during the past few decades, including oral, sublingual, rectal, parental, topical, and inhalation. Semisolid formulations in all their diversity dominate the system for topical delivery, but foams, sprays, medicated powders, solutions, and even medicated adhesive systems are in use. Topical delivery can be defined as the application of a drug-containing formulation to the skin to directly treat cutaneous disorders or the cutaneous manifestations of a general disease (e.g., psoriasis) with the intent of containing the pharmacological or the effect of drug to the surface of the skin or within the skin.4
2.2 Advantages of topical route of drug administration
2.3 The drawbacks of administering drugs topically
3. PHYSIOLOGY OF SKIN
Epidermis: The stratified keratinized squamous epithelium that makes up the epidermis, the topmost layer of skin, varies in thickness depending on the area of the body. The palms of hands and the soles of feet have the highest concentration of it. The epidermis lacks blood vessels and nerve endings, but the dermis's interstitial fluid, which supplies nutrition and oxygen and escapes as lymph, is submerged in its deeper layers.
Dermis: The dermis is elastic and hardy. It is made of connective tissue, and the matrix is made up of collagen and elastic fibres entwined. Stretch marks, also known as persistent striae, are a result of the rupture of elastic fibres in the skin, which can happen during pregnancy or after obesity. Wrinkles appear as a result of the ageing process because collagen fibres lose their capacity to bind water and provide the skin its tensile strength. The primary cells in the dermis are mast cells, fibroblasts, and macrophages. Varying levels of adipose (fat) tissue and areolar tissue lie under its deepest layer.
Subcutaneous gland: These are made up of secretory epithelial cells that come from the hair follicle's source tissue. They are found in the skin of every area of the body, with the exception of the palms of the hands and the soles of the feet, and they exude an oily material called sebum into the hair follicles. The skin of the groyne, axillae, scalp, and face has the highest concentration of them. Particularly in areas where one kind of superficial epithelium gives way to another, including the lips, eyelids, nipple, labia minora, and glans penis, sebaceous glands exist that secrete sebum straight onto the surface without the assistance of hair follicles.7
Functions of skin
4. CREAMS
The topical medications that can be applied to the skin are called creams. Creams are characterised as thick liquid or semi-solid dosage forms that vary in viscosity depending on the type of oil and water they include.8 Creams serve a variety of cosmetic functions, including cleansing, beautifying, enhancing appearance, protecting, and medicinal. These topical preparations are intended to deliver drugs locally, into the mucous membrane or the skin's underlying layer. These products are intended to be applied topically to improve the drug's site-specific delivery to the skin for skin conditions 9. Since creams are made using methods developed in the pharmaceutical business, they are regarded as pharmaceutical products. Both medicated and unmedicated creams are widely used to treat dermatoses and other skin problems. People can utilise creams that are allopathic, herbal, or ayurveda based on the demands of their individual skin issues. They include one or more drug ingredients that have been diluted or spread in an appropriate foundation. Based on phases, creams can be categorised as either w/o or o/w types of emulsion. Traditionally, semisolid formulations that are either oil-in-water (vanishing cream) or water-in-oil (cold cream) have been referred to as "cream" 10.
4.1 Types of skin cream
They are divided into two types:
4.2 Classification of creams
All the skin creams can be classified on different basis:
Types of creams according to function, characteristic properties and type of emulsion:
4.3 Advantages of topical drug delivery system:
4.4 Disadvantages of topical drug delivery system:
5. GENERAL INGREDIENTS USED IN SKIN CREAMS
The raw materials which are used in a manufacturing of skin creams include:
5.1 Water: In every cream recipe, this is the most significant and frequently utilised raw ingredient. These are the most accessible and affordable. Water is a solvent used in skin creams to dissolve other components. Creams are prepared with water, which is devoid of all pollutants, toxins, germs, and other contaminants. Depending on the amount of water used in the formulation, water can also create emulsions. These can be referred to as water-in-oil or oil-in-water emulsions, depending on the amounts of water and oil phase utilized.15
5.2 Oil, fats and waxes: A vital component of creams is made up of oil, fats, waxes, and their derivatives. In accordance with their respective functions, oils serve as preservatives, thickeners, emulsifiers, and perfumes. There are two types of oil: glyceride and mineral.
5.3 Mineral oil: Hydrocarbons obtained from petroleum oil make up mineral oil. Mineral oil is a highly refined, colourless, and transparent oil that is frequently used in cosmetics. In addition to seldom triggering adverse responses, mineral oil cannot solidify and block skin pores. It is affordable, lightweight, and helps to prevent the body from losing water while maintaining moisture levels. Cream formulation involves the use of several mineral oils. examples: Liquid petroleum, heavy liquid paraffin, and light liquid paraffin
5.4 Glyceride oil: Vegetable oils make up most glyceride oil. Almond oil, avocado oil, castor oil, coconut oil, olive oil, and so forth are glyceride oil examples.
5.5 Vegetable oil: create a barrier on the skin's surface, slowing down the loss of water and assisting in keeping the skin plump. Additionally, creams and other personal care products can have their lipid or oil part thickened with the application of vegetable oils. For instance, sunflower oil, avocado oil, germ oil, almond oil, etc. 16.
5.6 Waxes: which comprise spermaceti, ceresin, beeswax, and carnauba wax in the cream's composition. Because they prevent the separation of liquid and oil components in an emulsion, waxes are employed in cosmetic products. In addition to sticking to the skin's surface, these waxes thicken the lipid layer.
5.7 Fats: A variety of fats are utilised in the making of creams. These resources can come from plants, minerals, or animals. Vegetable or animal sources can be found in glyceride oils and fats. They are made up of glycerin and combinations of higher fatty acids. Depending on the technique, when saponified, they yield either soap or fatty acid and glycerin. The lauric, margaric, plamitic, stearic, and saturated groups of fatty acids are the most prevalent ones. Liquid oleic acid is the most widely used unsaturated fatty acid. More specifically, olive oil, almond oil, sesame oil, peanut oil, coca butter fat, mutton tallow, lard, and beef stearinE are the oils most frequently used in various cosmetics 17.
5.8 Lanolin: It comes from a sheep's wool fat. There are two forms of lanolin: the hydrous lanolin has a water content of 25% to 30%. The point of anhydrous lanolin is 38–42°C, and it has a faint smell. These substances lubricate the skin's surface, giving the illusion of smooth, soft skin. In cosmetic and personal care products, lanolin combines well with other ingredients and aids in the formation of emulsion.
5.9 Colours: Prior to the invention of contemporary technology, natural materials like indigo, saffron, turmeric, and others were the main sources of colour. Colours were created in laboratories after the 19th century and were discovered to be considerably more permanent and intensely coloured. They could also be made without utilising wild-harvested plants 18.
5.10 Emollients: Also called moisturisers, emollients are treatments that help condition and soothe dry or chapped skin. The majority of emollients, such lanolin, squalene, and mineral oil, are types of oil or grease. They function by enhancing the skin's capacity to retain water, lubricating the skin, and covering it with an oil coating to stop water loss 19.
5.11 Humectants: Found in the majority of skin care formulas, humectants are significant multifunctional components. Hydroscopic organic substances are known as humectants. These substances have the ability to take in and hold onto moisture. These are really beneficial, offering things like exfoliation and moisturization. Humectants include things like betaine, sodium PCA, glycerin, hydroxyethyl urea, sodium lactate, etc 20.
5.12 Perfumes: A perfume is a material that carries an aroma, such as a pleasant and sweet smell. Orange blossom, Rosy Dreams, and White Blossoms are a few examples of natural scents found in creams 21.
5.13 Vitamins: Vitamins are essential for preserving the skin's and body's overall physiological function. Generally, vitamins A, B, C, E, and so forth are used in the cream formulation.
5.14 Preservatives: Preservatives must be employed in cosmetic formulation, shipping, storage, and consumer usage to avoid microbial alterations and contamination. Antioxidants can also be utilised to guard against changes brought on by oxygen exposure. Low concentrations of synthetic preservatives efficiently preserve the items 22.
6. WOUND AND WOUND HEALING PROCESS
A loss or disruption of the cellular, anatomical, or functional continuity of the deep skin tissue or the living tissues is referred to as a wound. Physical, chemical, thermal, viral, microbial, aggressive, or immunological disturbance to the skin's surface can all result in wounds. In addition to having a physical and psychological impact on the patient, wounds can also be very expensive and leave scars that may last a lifetime. The term "wound" often refers to a physical damage that breaks and opens the skin. Mostly based on the method of occurrence and the causing agent, wounds can be categorised as follows:
The process of cell contraction, migration, and readhesion following skin trauma or injury is known as wound healing. Platelet aggregation, blood clotting, fibrin production, the inflammatory response to damage, changes in the ground substances, angiogenesis, and re-epithilization are all involved in wound healing. The creation of scars marks the end of the healing process, which is not accomplished until collagen has vigorously knitted the damaged area.The existence of free radicals can impair the healing process of wounds by causing harm to the surrounding skin tissues. Furthermore, a number of variables, including infections, diet, medications, hormones, the kind and location of the wound, and certain medical problems, might affect the healing process of wounds. Since ancient times, people in India have treated wounds with natural substances derived from plants and animals. This practise is known as Ayurveda and is a popular branch of Indian medicine. Natural products have been utilised for generations in many regions of the world; because to their relatively low side effects, natural products are starting to gain the same importance as alternative medicine. These factors motivate scientific research into complementary and alternative medicine in an effort to improve human health. For the treatment of chronic illnesses, they are utilised directly as drugs in their crude or raw form 23
7. AYURVEDIC MEDICINES FOR WOUND HEALING
8. ALTERNATIVE MEDICINES/CREAMS FOR WOUND HEALING
9. RELEVANT METHODS OF PREPARATION OF CREAMS FOR WOUND-HEALING:
Making the o/w emulsion cream. In a single beaker, the emulsifier and the oil-soluble ingredients are melted in a water bath at 75°C. Preservatives and watersoluble ingredients are also taken and melted at 75°C in another beaker of water. Following heating, the water phase was gradually added to the oil phase in a mortar and pestle, and the mixture was triturated until a clicking sound was produced. Finally, preservatives and/or fragrances are applied when the temperature drops. There will be more water in this preparation than oil.
Making w/o emulsion creams In a single beaker, the emulsifier and the oil-soluble ingredients are melted at 75°C. Additionally, components that dissolve in water are taken and melted at 75°C in a different beaker. Following melting, the water phase is placed in a mortar and pestle, and the oil phase is gradually added and stirred until a clicking sound is produced. Additionally, the fragrance agent is applied once the cream has cooled down. There will be more oil phase and less water phase in this preparation 24.
10. EVALUATION PARAMETERS OF CREAMS:
S= m*l/t
Where m = weight applied to upper slide.
l = length moved on the glass slide.
t = time taken.
Value of saponification = (b-a) *28.05/w
where w is the substance's weight in grammes.
Value of acid = n*5.61/w
Were, n = the no. of ml of 0.1 N KOH solution.
w = the weight of substance in gram.
CONCLUSION:
In conclusion, the dynamic landscape of cosmeceuticals represents a frontier where pharmaceutical science and cosmetic artistry converge to redefine skin care. As explored in this review, the categorization of cosmeceuticals into skin, hair, and other products underscores their diverse applications in enhancing both health and aesthetics. The significance of creams in topical drug delivery is emphasized, acknowledging the advantages and potential drawbacks of this delivery system. Understanding the physiology of the skin becomes pivotal in deciphering the efficacy of cosmeceutical products, particularly in the context of ingredients like water, oils, waxes, and fats. Moreover, the exploration of alternative medicines for wound healing, drawing from Ayurveda and contemporary formulations, highlights the rich potential of natural remedies in promoting skin health. Ayurvedic herbs and modern formulations offer a promising synergy for advancing wound healing practices. The article concludes by shedding light on the preparation methods for creams, emphasizing the importance of emulsion types. Evaluation parameters further provide a lens through which the quality and efficacy of cosmeceutical formulations can be assessed. In essence, this review unveils the innovations propelling cosmeceuticals into a new era, where science and beauty harmonize to foster advanced skin care solutions.
Conflicts Of Interests: There are no conflicts of interest.
Funding: Nil
Authors Contributions: All the authors have contributed equally.
Source of Support: Nil
Informed Consent Statement: Not applicable.
Data Availability Statement: The data supporting in this paper are available in the cited references.
Ethics approval: Not applicable.
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