Available online on 15.11.2022 at http://jddtonline.info

Journal of Drug Delivery and Therapeutics

Open Access to Pharmaceutical and Medical Research

Copyright  © 2022 The  Author(s): This is an open-access article distributed under the terms of the CC BY-NC 4.0 which permits unrestricted use, distribution, and reproduction in any medium for non-commercial use provided the original author and source are credited

Open Access   Full Text Article                                                                                                                                                                              Review Article 

A Review on Ayurvedic Cosmeceuticals and their Mode of Actions

Vandana N. Hirudkar1*, Vishal Shivhare2

Prof., Rasashastra & Bhaishajya Kalpana Department, L. N. Ayurved College and Hospital, Bhopal (MP) India

2Assistant Professor, Rasashastra & Bhaishajya Kalpana Department, L. N. Ayurved College and Hospital, Bhopal (MP) India

Article Info:

_______________________________________________

Article History:

Received 03 Sep 2022      

Reviewed 14 Oct 2022

Accepted 29 Oct 2022  

Published 15 Nov 2022  

_______________________________________________

Cite this article as: 

Hirudkar VN, Shivhare V, A Review on Ayurvedic Cosmeceuticals and their Mode of Actions, Journal of Drug Delivery and Therapeutics. 2022; 12(6):204-206

DOI: http://dx.doi.org/10.22270/jddt.v12i6.5664              _______________________________________________

*Address for Correspondence:  

Dr. Vandana N. Hirudkar, Prof., Rasashastra & Bhaishajya Kalpana Department, L. N. Ayurved College and Hospital, Bhopal (MP) India

Abstract

___________________________________________________________________________________________________________________

The uses of herbal ingredients in cosmetic industry increases day by day since these products improves natural beauty and also gives anti-aging effect. The presence of chemicals such as essential oils, alkaloids, proteins, flavonoids, vitamins and minerals, etc., contributed towards the cosmeceutical properties of herbal cosmetics. Ayurveda described uses of cosmetic for retaining health of skin, hair and tooth, etc. The Ayurveda cosmeceutical provides Vayasthapana, Varnya, Sandhaniya, Tvachya, Shothahara and Tvachagnivardhani effects thus helps to retain beauty and resist symptoms of early aging. Natural products such as Amla, Gotukola, Neem, Henna, Bael, Brahmi, Haritaki, Shikakai, Bhringaraj and Reetha, etc. mainly used for the beautification purpose. Some Ayurveda formulations or topical preparations and oils also recommended for improving health of skin and hair. Ayurveda cosmeceuticals offers advantages of availability, safety and free from unwanted chemical reactions. Present article summarizes the key aspects related to the natural cosmeceuticals and their mode of action.

Keywords: Ayurveda, Beauty, Cosmeceuticals, Vayasthapana, Tvachya

 


 

Introduction

Cosmeceuticals are the products used for improving or retaining beauty, they mainly employed for curing health of skin, hair, tooth and eye, etc. The natural or herbal cosmeceuticals acquiring their market place in cosmetic industry since they contain many ingredients which offer potential effect on skin. The herbal ingredients provide nutrition to the skin and reversing the signs of aging. Ayurvedic cosmeceuticals improves external appearance, gives longevity and maintain youthfulness. Ayurveda concept of Rutucharya and Dinacharya also helps to improve natural beauty 1-4

Ayurvedic cosmeceuticals considered safe and holistic option for improving beauty and they are easily available for the use of common people. Ayurvedic cosmeceuticals resist aging, tonifying skin, imparts calming and smoothing effects, moistened skin thus prevent dryness and prevent premature aging.

Skin and Doshas:

Skin and Dhatus

The Ayurvedic cosmeceutical should potentiate all these Dhatus i.e.; Rasa, Rakta and Mamsa to improve the overall health of skin. Similarly the anti-aging therapy of Ayurveda works in two ways; Urjaskara and Vyadhihara, the first one is promotive approach and later one is curative therapy 5-8. The Ayurveda cosmetics act by virtue of their specific actions, some of them depicted in Figure 1.

 image

Figure 1: Biological action of Ayurvedic Cosmeceuticals

 

Advantages of Ayurvedic Cosmeceuticals: 

Ayurvedic cosmeceutical and their mode of action: 

Centella asiatica (Gotu-Kola) acts as Vayasthapana drug, nourishes skin and offers anti-aging property thus maintain youthfulness. Vayasthapana herbs keep all Doshas in balance and enhance collagen synthesis.

Sandalwood and Indian madder, etc. acts as Varnya, means these drug possess ability to enhance the radiance or complexion of skin. They help skin to glow, maintain youthfulness and impart pleasant feeling. 

Some herbs helps to protect from normal wear and tear, these cosmeceutical termed as Sandhaniya, the Sandhaniya herbs provides healing and regenerative effects thus improves health of skin and delay aging.

Herbs like Gotu Kola also acts by their Vranaropana effect and provide deep healing of tissue, these drugs enhances healing of skin from the cuts and wounds thus restore natural appearance of skin surface.

Costus, Rose Petal and Orange peel, etc. acts by their Tvachya effects and nurture skin. These herbs maintain moisture balance, give nourishment to the skin and prevent effects of early aging. The presence of Vitamins A, C and E in these herbs contributed towards the skin nourishing effect of herbs. 

Amla, Trifala and Centella asiatica strengthen skin's metabolic mechanisms thus acts as Tvachagnivardhani. These drugs enhances luster of skin, clears clogged channels, maintain youthful glow, improves circulation and prevent skin wrinkles. 

Tvagrasayana means Rasayana drug indicated for skin which helps to maintain normal skin health and retard aging effects. 

Neem used for healing purposes, cure skin diseases and prevent topical microbial infection thus resists skin infections. It is also used to prevent itching, rashes and infectious wounds thus retain normal health of skin. 

Henna is used as natural dyes and colourants, also used as natural conditioner, strengthen hair and make them shine. Henna cleans and nourishes hair, promote hair growth and cure dandruff problems.

Bilva cures hair problems and provides anti-inflammatory conditions, it control Vata thus maintain normal circulation.

Brahmi control stress-related effects of aging, impart calming effect, improve health of hair, reduce stress thus control stress related conditions like alopecia and early aging. 

Shikakai, Reetha and Bhringaraj, etc. also used in the form of oils, cleansers and conditioners for retaining health of hair. They treat dandruff, alopecia and seborrhoea, etc. 

Sandalwood is cosmetic ingredient used as germicidal and antiseptic in medicine and exotic deodorant or scent for cosmetic purpose. Sandalwood soothes skin and heal inflammation, gives rejuvenating effects, prevent from pollutants and sun-exposure. Sandalwood oil used in moisturizers, body shampoos, body lotions and baby-care products, etc. 

Aloe vera maintains moisture balance of skin, control acid-alkaline balances, help in cell renewal, Aloe vera heal cuts and wounds, helps to clean and protect skin.

Almond, lavender, jasmine and balsam, etc. used in emollient nourishing creams. The presence of oil and Vitamin helps to protect the tissues from degeneration. Almond is considered good for skin around the eyes, prevent wrinkles and dark circles. Protect from sun and uses as humectants. Gold, diamond and pearls, etc. also described in Ayurveda for cosmetic purpose.

Santalum album, Kumkuma (Crocus sativus) and distilled products of Rose and Jasmine used as Gandha Dravya (deodorants), these all helps to improves body odour, to avoid foul body smell and applied as Alepa or Arka over the body [2-6].

Conclusion

The herbal or natural cosmeceuticals helps to improves natural beauty and delay sign of early aging. These natural cosmeceuticals improves beauty doe to the presence of chemicals such as essential oils, proteins, alkaloids, flavonoids, vitamins and minerals, etc. The Ayurveda cosmeceuticals act by virtue of their Vayasthapana, Varnya, Sandhaniya, Tvachya, Shothahara and Tvachagnivardhani effects. Gotukola, Neem, Amla, Henna, Bael, Haritaki, Shikakai, Bhringaraj, Reetha and Brahmi, etc. are some examples of natural cosmeceuticals which are used for the beautification purpose. Ayurveda cosmeceuticals offers advantages of safety, compatibility and patient compliance. Natural products are free from hazardous chemical reactions with the human skin and not possess unwanted side effects. Ayurveda drugs acts at cellular level, provides healing properties, gives calming and soothing effects. The Ayurveda beauty products can also be applied for treating conditions like pigmented skin, skin-sensitivity, dark circles, dandruff, hair damage and premature ageing, etc.

 

References

  1. Patwardhan B, Vaidya AD, Chorghade M. Ayurveda and natural products drug discovery. Curr Sci. 2004; 86:789–99. 
  2. Dash B, Sharama BK. Charak Samhita. 7th ed. Varanasi, India: Chaukhamba Sanskrit Series Office; 2001. 
  3. Sharma L, Agarwal G, Kumar Medicinal plants for skin and hair care. Indian J Trad Know. 2003; 2:62–8. 
  4. Patkar KB. Herbal Cosmetics in ancient India. Indian J Plast Surg Suppl. 2008; 41:S134.  https://doi.org/10.1055/s-0039-1700484
  5. Vagbhata, Sareera Sthana. Pandit Hari Sadasiva Sastri. Astanga Hridaya. Paradakaran with Sarvanga Sundara Commentary of Arun Dutta and Ayurveda Rasayana of Hemadri, Reprint Ed. Varansi: Chaukhamba Sanskrita Orientalia, 2012; 3(4):385. 
  6. Chuarienthong P et al. Clinical efficacy of antiwrinkle cosmetics containing herbal flavonoids. International journal of cosmetic science, 2010; 32:99-116.  https://doi.org/10.1111/j.1468-2494.2010.00522.x
  7. Vagbhata, Sareera Sthana. K. R. Srikantha Murthy. Astanga Sangraha, Reprint Ed. Varansi: Chaukhamba Orientalia, 1999; 1(36):1. 
  8. Agnivesha. Indriya Sthana. Vaidya Jadavji Tikramji Acharya with Ayurveda Deepika Commentary of Chakrapani dutta, Charak Samhita. Reprint Ed. Varansi: Chaukhamba Prakashan, 2008; 1(8):355. 
  9. Shilpa et al. Cosmetology in Ayurveda, International Ayurveic Medical Journal, 2014; 2(2):138-141. 
  10. Agnivesha. Sutra Sthana. Vaidya Jadavji Tikramji Acharya with Ayurveda Deepika Commentary of Chakrapani dutta, Charak Samhita. Reprint Ed. Varansi: Chaukhamba Prakashan, 2008; 27(65):158. 
  11. Vagbhata, Sareera Sthana. Pandit Hari Sadasiva Sastri. Astanga Hridaya. Paradakaran with Sarvanga Sundara Commentary of Arun Dutta and Ayurveda Rasayana of Hemadri, Reprint Ed. Varansi: Chaukhamba Sanskrita Orientalia, 2013; 3(90- 92):277.